Patrick Mueller takes us on a journey into the creation of his debut fragrance for Kajal, Lamar Noir. This evocative composition embodies the contrast of opposites, blending radiant, airy notes with deep, enigmatic undertones. Bold and alluring, Lamar Noir draws its wearer into a sensual narrative, celebrating the harmony of light and darkness that defines the human experience.

In this exclusive conversation, Patrick reveals the inspirations, challenges, and artistry behind Lamar Noir, offering an intimate glimpse into the creative process that brought this captivating fragrance to life. 

Lamar Noir feels like it captures an elusive balance between light and darkness. Can you take us back to the moment the inspiration for this fragrance first stirred within you? What mood or vision sparked its creation?

Lamar Noir was originally born starting from light – similar like how we are born. One of the first things we acknowledge right after being born is light. I tried to underline this situation with very gourmand, vanillic, airy, fruity and floral notes. After being born and leaving our protected childhood we make our first experiences in life – we not only enjoy bright success but also encounter dark experiences as well. This darkness I have tried to interpretate with ambery, woody, oudy and leathery notes. This mixture of light and darkness shapes us who we are today. This is the balance of life as we all know it. We feel joy, we feel pain. Light and darkness. Ying and yang. Both belong together and from both we learn. 

Crafting a fragrance like Lamar Noir must be an intricate and deeply personal journey. Could you walk us through the creative process of blending its unique notes? Were there any unexpected twists along the way?

As I am still undergoing my training to become a perfumer it was an immense personal journey. Especially when being at the very beginning the expectations and thoughts are higher compared to a senior or master perfumer, who already can look back to several decades of success and experience. However, I tried to stay pragmatic. As a youngster you try to find insights from other perfumers – e.g. from Francis Kurkdjian, Jean-Claude Ellena or my personal mentor, Alain Alchenberger. Simplicity is key and helps to not unnecessarily complicate one’s formula. Of course, it needs many trials because not every molecule reacts the same, so you must try different dosages, different dilutions and different combinations to get what you think is best.

Translating an abstract idea or emotion into a tangible scent must be a unique challenge. Did Lamar Noir present any particular hurdles in its evolution?

Every fragrance is a challenge, for the perfumer, however also for the brand and for the user. In the end, the main challenge with Lamar Noir was to find a proper balance between all facets, but I still wanted to follow the main goal to cover the fragrance in a black sensual daring aura. In the end it was mostly the dark notes, which were challenging because you need to find the right/exact balance. 

Lamar Noir is both elegant and intense, full of contrasts. Was there a specific balance you were aiming for in the composition, and how did you know when that balance was just right?

It took several trials to find the specific balance. You have molecules which represent brightness and then you have molecules which present darkness. To find the proper equilibrium is a challenge and, in the end, not everyone might agree with your own result – simply because perfumery is very subjective. However there comes a time where one must come to an end. 

Every perfume reaches a moment of ‘completion’ — when you know it’s perfect. What was your favourite moment during the creation of Lamar Noir, when you felt you’d captured something truly extraordinary?

This is for sure a very tricky topic. I think (especially) a perfumer is never really done with a formulation as you always think of other ways, directions and interpretations you can try. A perfume formula is a bit like a cooking recipe – you can always adapt, change, twist, mix, blend and so on. My favourite moment was when you smell the version, where you know that this is the moment to stop and finalize. You can smell and automatically the emotions go through your head and a big smile pops on your face. 

Fragrances have the power to transport us to distant places or evoke forgotten memories. When you think of Lamar Noir, is there a specific place, time, or feeling it personally transports you to?

Lamar Noir to me should be something inviting and tempting. Simply let go and fall into its dark sensual world. The warm bright notes should comfy you on your journey through this mysterious darkness. 

For someone experiencing Lamar Noir for the first time, what feeling, or impression do you hope lingers with them long after?

Lamar Noir can be a bit shocking for an unexperienced nose. This complex creation really brings the most bang for your bucks. The sillage is enormous and the longevity is recognizable for days. Here I have used some of the best molecules one can get for their palette, and I personally loved working on it. For Lamar Noir one simple spray is needed, and you are good for the whole day. This fragrance will linger around you as it is highly potent. You will certainly raise some attention when wearing it. I am convinced that many will enjoy how intriguing, exciting, and daring the fragrance is.

Perfumery is an art that requires immense expertise. What initially drew you into this world, and how has your creative philosophy evolved since?

That is absolutely correct. From early age I was fascinated by nature and science. After graduating, I started my career in the laboratory as a biomedical scientist. After the lab I was working for Mettler Toledo as an application specialist before moving in 2012 to LUZI where I started to work first in the fragrance sales department, specifically for the Middle Eastern market. End of 2018 I moved to Dubai to open and expand the first sales office in the Middle East. I was always very fascinated not only by the fragrances, but also by the raw materials and molecules used in perfumery. I absolutely enjoyed exchanging olfactory experiences and knowledge with the perfumers. In the end, knowledge is power as one says and this knowledge was needed being so successful in the Middle Eastern sales market. Around September 2022 the executive board of LUZI approached me with the offer of a 3-year re-training to become a perfumer under the supervision of Master Perfumer, Mr. Alain Alchenberger, who was the former Director of the Givaudan Perfumery School. 

Fragrance is an intersection of both art and science. How do you navigate that delicate balance in your work? Is there a point where intuition takes over, or is it a constant interplay between precision and creativity?

Absolutely right, I couldn’t have said it any better. My passion and love for science began to grow when I was a child. I always asked and questioned how things work. I even remember going the beach and taking samples of algae, sand and water – trying to see if I can recognize something under my microscope which my parents got for me for Christmas. I am fascinated by biology, medicine, chemistry and biochemistry and after graduating I started to work in the haematology department of the University Hospital of Basel, analysing bone marrow and blood regarding genetical abnormalities. I think this was very fundamental and when joining the perfume industry in 2012 the artistic influences started to evolve as well. Personally, I think it’s a delicate balance between both worlds. It is utterly important to know, smell and memorize the raw materials being used in our industry. For me this undertaking was a very intense process. I spent roughly now 2 years in only memorizing molecules, however the better you know your molecules the more you know how they act/react and how to properly combine them. Smelling activates our neurons. Our nose is like a muscle. If you don’t use it enough it becomes week. The more you train your nose, the stronger you will be able to smell.

Watching Lamar Noir resonate with those who wear it must be incredibly rewarding. Is there a particular reaction or piece of feedback that has stayed with you since its release?

Lamar Noir is my very first win with a prestigious fragrance house. Receiving positive feedback from the fragrance house itself is very flattering, however as I also learned in sales it’s the end customer, the client so to say inside the shop who makes the final decision. No matter how good or great you think of your own fragrance creation is, it’s the end customer who decides. Nevertheless, I am very happy how high the appreciation and acceptance is, especially for a fragrance which jumps a bit out of the box with Kajal. Nonetheless, it is very important to stay with both feet on the ground as we say in German. It is important to stay humble – no matter how high one’s success is. Otherwise, you quickly lose your grip, and you start to stop challenging yourself.