In Conversation with Kevin Mathys: The Creative Visionary Behind Kajal IV
Join us for an exclusive interview with senior perfumer Kevin Mathys, the visionary behind Kajal IV. We explore the inspiration behind this distinctive fragrance, his refined creative process, and the remarkable olfactory journey that defines his artistry.
Kajal IV is celebrated for its unique narrative in scent form. Can you share the moment or vision that first ignited your inspiration for this fragrance? Was it a personal experience or an artistic idea that guided its creation?
Kajal IV came to life from a mix of experiences I’ve had traveling to places where scent is such a big part of everyday life - whether it’s the incense in temples or the spices in the air at local markets. It’s not tied to one specific experience, but more of a collection of moments that sparked the idea of blending unexpected notes - like palm trees and dates - into something new and I wanted to capture that contrast. It’s intimate, mysterious, and leaves a lasting impression.
How do you go from imagining an abstract concept, whether it’s a feeling, a memory, or a place, to crafting a fragrance like Kajal IV? Could you walk us through the process of turning this vision into reality?
I start by picturing the scent in my mind, then I begin sketching out the basic accords. From there, I slowly refine it, choosing specific ingredients or accords that fit. The process is really about trial and error - smelling, adjusting, and fine-tuning until it feels just right.
During the creative journey of Kajal IV, were there specific high points that stood out to you? Moments where everything clicked, or where you felt the fragrance truly came alive?
Moe wanted a sweeter version of the first draft of Kajal IV, so I decided to add our Kholas Dates AromaSpace. That really took the fragrance to the next level and made it incredibly addictive!
What drew you to the world of perfumery? Was there a particular moment or fragrance in your life that made you realize this was your calling?
My love of fragrance started when I was a kid—I’ve always been drawn to scents. I remember blending colognes when I was younger, which weren’t great, but it sparked something in me and I knew I wanted to become a perfumer. I was also passionate about chemistry and thought I’d become a cosmetic chemist until I learned perfumery could be a career. I began experimenting with essential oils and notes, and eventually landed a trainee position as a perfumer.
For those dreaming of becoming perfumers, what advice would you give? Are there certain skills, habits, or mindsets that you think are essential for crafting memorable fragrances?
My advice is simple: smell, smell, and then smell some more. When it comes to creating, don’t be afraid to fail - it’s part of the process. As a perfumer, you’ll probably hear 'no' a hundred times before you get one 'yes’.
Are there fragrance notes you feel especially connected to, ones you love to explore in your compositions? What is it about these particular notes that speak to you creatively?
A few ingredients that I really connect with are all types of woods, labdanum and ambroxan - they have a magnetic, mysterious quality that I find incredibly sexy. They are extremely versatile and can be used to create contrasts and textures, each of these notes speaks to me creatively because they allow me to layer different emotions and textures, creating something multifaceted and memorable.
On the flip side, are there any fragrance notes that you find less appealing or more challenging to work with? How do you approach incorporating those into a fragrance when necessary?
Musk’s are probably the notes I’m least drawn to. But when I find it hard to work with an ingredient, I try to create smaller accords that help break it down, making it easier to use. Funny enough, when I was a trainee, I really disliked dry woody notes like Ambrocenide and Norlimbanol. Now, they’re a key part of my work - guess it’s true what they say, only fools don’t change their minds!
As someone who has created award-winning fragrances, what is the most surprising or misunderstood aspect of being a perfumer? What do people rarely realize about the complexity behind a scent like Kajal IV?
As perfumers, our job is to bring a brand’s vision to life. We put a bit of ourselves into it, but the decisions aren’t entirely ours to make. Some brands lean more toward aldehydes, while others are all about patchouli - this is something that’s often misunderstood. We also have to work within certain constraints, like regulatory compliance and performance expectations. But the toughest challenge is balancing creativity - being fresh and bold, while still making sure the fragrance is commercially viable.